“Man is a complex being: he makes deserts bloom—and lakes die.” Gil Stern
Carol
writes: Some
of our best tips about things to see and do come from fellow RVers in our campground
homes. One of our fellow campers
suggested that we take a short day trip to a little town called Oatman,
Arizona, up in the hills a little ways from our campground. Oatman was founded in 1906 as a gold mining
town along what was to become famous Route 66.
In Oatman, the gold boom played out for about 35
years and then the mines closed. The
sole reason for the town’s existence today is the tourist trade which in turn
is attracted to that locale because of its adorable, friendly, photogenic
burros.
In the mining days the burros were used for
hauling ore, water and supplies, but when mining operations ceased, the burros
were released into the surrounding hills where they thrived and
multiplied. Burros were everywhere! All traffic yielded to burros! Petting these creatures was irresistible!
Yeah, it was worth a trip to Oatman to mingle with the burros…
After luxuriating in a bit of resort lifestyle in Las Vegas, our next temporary home was in PAHRUMPH, NEVADA, where we parked for a week in a quaint family-owned campground on the grounds of Pahrumph Valley Winery.
Somehow the present owners have found a way to
make grapes grow in the desert. The
campground amenities included an elegant restaurant with a gourmet menu and, just
around the corner, a gift shop/wine-tasting room that offered complimentary
tasting (!) of some of their award-winning wines.
treated ourselves to a gourmet meal…
and replenished our wine stash.
Some clever marketing going on at Pahrumph Valley
Winery!
Turned out there was a whole lot more to do in the
great outdoors nearby…
BIKE RIDE TO HOOVER DAM
When we talked to the park ranger at the Lake Mead
Visitor Center, she highly recommended doing the bike trail to—
The trail was along an historic railroad bed that
was used during the building of Hoover Dam back in the 1930s. The neat part of the ride was going through a
series of 5 railroad tunnels
along the shore of majestic Lake Mead.
Hoover Dam was just as spectacular as we had
remembered from previous trips—a true engineering marvel.
However, the sight of the shoreline “bathtub ring”
that illustrates how much the water has
dropped over the years at Lake Mead was sobering. Water conservation efforts in this part of
our country must be a serious way of life.
Biking to Hoover Dam along an historic railroad
trail was a superb bike ride all the way around!
Another one of our enjoyable day trips was to Ash Meadows NWR, the largest remaining oasis in the Mojave Desert, where the natural warm springs provide a haven for two dozen species of plant and animal life found nowhere else on the planet. We took a walk along a nature trail next to our picnic site
and had a fortuitous sighting of the rare 1-inch
blue pupfish. We had noticed very small
fish swimming in this still, clear, spring-fed, idyllic pond.
It was only when the fish turned sideways to the
sun that we observed the brilliant blue color and knew we had seen a rare
desert pupfish.
It was well worth the trip to Ash Meadows NWR for
the neat experience of hiking along the boardwalks of a very special wildlife
refuge of incredible natural beauty.
CHINA RANCH DATE FARM
I had never thought much about how dates
grow. I buy them in a bag at the
supermarket and love using them in sweet breads and hot oatmeal. So, a trip to an actual date farm out in the
middle of the Mojave Desert on the flanks of Death Valley sparked our
interest.
The entrance to China Ranch Date Farm was an
interesting one—down a dry, steep, narrow road,
ending in the oasis below where we found acres and
acres of date palms.
This date farm was started by a curious little
girl named Viola Modine, who sent away for seeds from a mail order catalog around
1920. Nearly a century later,
voila! The present-day farm includes several
China Ranch hybrids in addition to varieties from Morocco, Algeria, and Iraq.
Now… what was underneath those white canvas
bags handing from the trees?
Ingenious…clusters of ripening dates protected
from birds!
The date palm orchard quickly became a
photographic delight under the brilliant blue sky of a warm day in late Fall.
Al couldn’t resist climbing a nearby hill
and shooting back on the orchard.
After a picnic lunch including a shared date shake
(yum!), we couldn’t resist a gift shop purchase of a date nut loaf and a bag of
freshly picked honey dates. The first
morning we had fresh, delicious China Ranch dates in our oatmeal, I couldn’t
help but look back with fond memories of our visit.
What a pleasant few weeks we had enjoyed in the impressive
Mojave Desert. We honestly felt we had
purged our bodies of any Las Vegas vices.
Now we were poised for a 9-day visit to a long-anticipated destination—Death
Valley National Park. We hoped this
would be one of the highlights of our first year on the road. Would the memories of our last stay at Death
Valley in 1989 prove be accurate ones?
“We won’t have a society if we destroy the
environment.” Margaret Mead
We were just at Ash Meadow. Another place brought back from the brink. I'm thankful to all the conservationists that fought to rehabilitate after it was over-farmed, and fought to prevent the planned development of a "little Las Vegas."
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