Carol writes:
PORTSMOUTH HISTORIC DOCKYARDS: Very near the top of Al’s wish list was a desire to visit the warship ‘HMS Victory’, Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson’s flagship during the historic Battle of Trafalgar. Trafalgar was a pivotal victory for England in the Napoleonic War, as victory at Trafalgar assured England that Napoleon’s burning ambition to invade England would never be realized.
The only way to visit the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard,
home of ‘HMS Victory’, was by means
of a ferry ride from Gosport, a short distance from the dockyard across the
harbor.
Our first view of the mighty ‘Victory’ was an impressive
one! She is the world’s oldest
commissioned warship –and probably the most famous too.
Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar exacted a very high
cost that day in 1805 because Lord Nelson himself died a hero’s death a few
hours after being shot in the chest by a French sniper during the heat of
battle. A simple metal plaque marked the
spot on the wooden deck where Lord Nelson fell.
A wonderful haunting painting was displayed below decks
in the dark and somber spot where Lord Nelson breathed his last breath just moments
after being reassured that the British were victorious that day.
Internet photo--"The Death of Nelson" by Arthur Devis
Many areas of this famous warship were quite accessible
during our walking tour. Immense cannons
projected through the gunports on several decks.
Lord Nelson’s bedroom was remarkable in its simplicity. His bed was a modest cradle-like box that
hung suspended from the ceiling.
Even the crew slept in hanging beds.
I found the experience of walking the decks of the famous
‘Victory’ to be a fascinating one. As a
retired naval officer and a lover of history, Al felt very satisfied and most
impressed with our visit!
Our visit to the Portsmouth dockyard was really an
all-day affair. Also included in the
admission was entrance to a state-of-the-art museum that housed the remains of
the ‘Mary Rose’, flagship of King Henry VIII.
For an incredible 400 years the ‘Mary Rose’ lay half
buried in the watery straits just north of the Isle of Wight where she sunk in
1545. In 1982 millions of households
watched television in fascination as the skeletal remains of the ‘Mary Rose’
were raised from the bottom of the sea.
In the last 3 decades this famous ship has undergone periods of keeping
her wet, followed by lengthy periods of drying her out by means of large ventilation
tubes in order to preserve what remains.
The ‘Mary Rose’ lay buried for over four centuries in an
oxygen-starved muddy environment. Thus,
many of her fascinating artifacts remained remarkably preserved, including the
skeleton of the ship’s dog. In addition,
several sets of human remains were also recovered, and by studying these bones much
has been learned about the health, diet and lifestyle of the ship’s crew.
As we embarked on our last few days in England, we felt a
visit to see the ‘Victory’ and the ‘Mary Rose’ was a fitting way to wind up
what has been a wonderful trip through British history.
WINDSOR CASTLE: If
Napoleon had defeated Nelson at Trafalgar, our experience at our final stop in
England at Windsor Castle, home of the Queen, would have been a much different
one. Little did we know when we formed
our plan to visit Windsor Castle that it would serve as the perfect way to knit
together so much of the British history and tradition we had absorbed during
our travels over the past 3 months. The
first view of Windsor Castle was a stunner!
The Queen considers Windsor Castle her home, which it has
been for over 60 years. There are vast
acres of grounds where she loves to walk her beloved dogs. For
defensive purposes, Windsor had the requisite moat, but this one has never held
any water due to the chalky porous soil beneath. Rosebushes looked prettier than water…
We lucked out just as we arrived and began our
audioguided tour. The changing of the
palace guard was just getting underway and we could see that there were very
few visitors lined up along the fenced-off courtyard where this ceremony would
take place.
A sizeable band was part of the ceremony, but the music
that they played puzzled most of the crowd, including us! I swear one of
the tunes sounded like it was from a James Bond movie. The selection of “When the Saints Come
Marching In” seemed oddly out of place but may have been chosen to please the
Americans in the crowd. I read later that the custom is for the band to play a selection of tunes from films and musicals during interludes in the historical ‘Changing of the Guard’ ceremony.
Pictures were prohibited anywhere inside the palace or inside
St. George’s Chapel, so I have resorted to posting a few interior views of the palace and chapel that I found on the
Internet.
The palace Crimson Room was stupendous!
One of the most prestigious honors that the Queen can
bestow is the Order of the Garter. In
addition to the Queen and the Prince of Wales, only 24 living persons can hold
this honor at one time. The blue carpet scheme in the room where the Order of the Garter ceremony is conducted was
brilliant. The symbolism of the 24 blue-upholstered chairs, 12 on each side of the aisle in front of the Queen's throne, was powerful.
Windsor Castle's large and lavish state dinners are held in St.
George’s Hall. This section of the
castle had to be restored after a horrendous fire in 1992 which destroyed a
significant part of an historic wing of the castle. A new wooden ceiling was designed for St.
George’s Hall and was purposely made out of unseasoned oak beams so that they
could be bent for curves in the design.
In addition, when the wood eventually dried out after construction, it had
the expected authentic cracks that would have been present centuries ago. The spaces between the oak ceiling members received
a new look; this was a checker-boarded design made with the heraldic coats of
arms of the 1000-plus knights who had ever received the Order of the Garter. The shields of disgraced knights were whited
out.
Masterpieces by Rubens, Holbein, and Van Dyke hung
throughout the castle. Many of these
were portraits of past monarchs and their families.
The most impressive aspect of the history of Windsor Castle
was the fact that it is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the
world. It was conceived in the 11th
century by William the Conqueror as a defensive fortification and has been home
to 39 monarchs. Over the centuries
improvements and enlargements have taken place until the castle arrived at its present
form under Queen Victoria, a little over 100 years ago. Both Al and I agreed that for many reasons
Windsor Castle was the most impressive palace/castle we have visited in the United Kingdom—and there have been quite a few.
Another part of the castle complex was equally elegant—St. George’s Chapel, easily one of the most beautiful and historically
rewarding ecclesiastical buildings in all of the United Kingdom.
The magnificent fan vaulting was nothing short of
miraculous in its day. Today its intricate
design continues to pull the visitor’s vision heavenward.
St. George’s Chapel houses the tombs of many monarchs and
their spouses. The biggest thrill for us
was right in the middle aisle of the choir floor where we finally got to see the black marble slab of stone that
covered the tomb of the infamous King Henry VIII, the one monarch above all who
seemed to play such a big part in the British history we had come to know so
well.
Henry was buried with Jane Seymour, his third and
favorite wife…or perhaps the one who died before she could displease Henry in
some way that would prove unfortunate for her.
As we rode our bus back to the campground, we marveled at
how so many centuries of British history was summed up nicely at Windsor Castle. It is no surprise that of all her royal residences
Queen Elizabeth has chosen to call Windsor Castle her home.
RAF LAKENHEATH:
So…here we are at RAF Lakenheath, home of the United States Air Force 48th
Fighter Wing. We have checked ourselves
into a room at the temporary lodging facility and plan to spend the next four
days resting up, recharging our energy, refilling prescriptions, catching up on
blogs, taking care of housekeeping chores in the RV, and setting out a strategy
for the next three months on the Continent.
Our bonus today was watching an Armed Forces Network replay of the
last Denver Broncos game in which they defeated the Dallas Cowboys 51-48 by
kicking the winning field goal in the final minute of the game. The few extra creature comforts we are
enjoying here have made us feel like we are at a resort.
In short, we have had a “brilliant” and “splendid” time in the United Kingdom. In four days we will be off to points south headed toward Italy. Cheerio!
In short, we have had a “brilliant” and “splendid” time in the United Kingdom. In four days we will be off to points south headed toward Italy. Cheerio!
“England and
America are two countries separated by the same language.” George Bernard Shaw
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