"Whatever you want to do, do it now! There are only so many tomorrows.” Pope
Paul VI – Italian Pope (1897-1978)
Al writes:
There is a considerable difference between Northern Italy and Southern
Italy. The north is more affluent and the south is, well, just crazy. Once you get down to Naples, it is chaotic. Driving is interesting
and is the only place on this trip I started seeing dented cars. The
Italians like to drive on the line in the middle of the road to keep their
options open. The air quality did not seem to be very good with the open-air
burning, and there seemed to be much more trash. If you want to
experience the gritty Italian culture, this is the place.
We skipped
Rome because we spent a week there several years ago, and so we made our way to
the Naples area to explore Pompeii and Herculaneum. On pulling into
Pompeii, my first big decision was: do I stay at the Spartacus Campground or
the Zeus Campground? Spartacus was crucified by the Romans, so I thought
it might be cheaper than paying for a Roman-god-endorsed campground.
Then an
incredible coincidence occurred which has a probability of almost zero.
We ran into Mark and Vicki! Here is the story. Mark and
Vicki are world travelers and have traveled Europe for 33 months out of the
last five years in an almost identical RV as ours. In my research for
this trip, I came across their blog and got countless pointers and cautions for
preparing for this trip. Mark and Vicki shared their wisdom and experience
via emails and a phone call, which was a tremendous help to us in our
preparations. I knew they were in Europe but did not have any hope that
we would meet in the same campground. There are thousands of campgrounds
and thousands of free wild camping places, and we just happened to be in the
same place at the same time. Amazing! We had a delightful evening
together drinking Mark and Vicki's wine, telling stories, and sharing
information. What a great evening. They have been our inspiration…
Mount
Vesuvius dominates the skyline of Naples.
It erupted August 24, 79 A.D and wiped out the ports of Pompeii and
Herculaneum. Our first day in the ruins
was spent in Pompeii, once a middle-class bustling town of about 20,000 inhabitants. Most of Pompeii's citizens were able to
escape the dozens of feet of ash deposited on the town. What was a bad day for the Romans, created a
treasure trove of artifacts and knowledge of what Roman life was like during
this era. Many of the artifacts and
frescoes have been moved to the Archaeological Museum of Naples, but the
massive extent of the ruins make up the ultimate ghost town one can visit. We explored city block after city block,
marveling at the remains of the forum,
As we walked
the miles of quiet, abandoned streets (most tourists had left for the day), we
could not help but nervously look over our shoulder at the looming outline of
Vesuvius, which is still an active volcano and is closely monitored. It last erupted in 1944.
Our next
day was spent in Herculaneum, just a short train ride away from the
campground. Herculaneum was also a port
town, but smaller with about 4,000 inhabitants.
This town was better preserved because it was covered by a super-hot
pyroclastic flow of ash, pumice, and gas that flowed down the flanks of
Vesuvius at nearly 100 miles per hour.
Herculaneum was buried under about 60 feet of this material that later
cooled to rock, freezing the town in time.
So the evacuated area is much smaller than Pompeii but loaded with
better preserved mosaic floors, frescoes and organic material. The organic material I am referring to is
wood and, unfortunately, bodies.
Archeologists were puzzled by the lack of human remains until they
started uncovering the boat storage areas along what used to be the water's
edge. Most of the inhabitants rushed to
the water to try to escape, and the photos tell the story.
This area
is treated with respect and is restricted to observing the area from a distance
looking down on these alcoves. Very
graphic and disturbing…
The rest of
Herculaneum provided a wonderful view of life in the Roman Empire. One of my favorite parts of the ruins were
Thermopoliums. They were on every street
and block. It is the Roman version of
McDonald's franchises. They were fast
food joints and were almost identical in appearance, just as you would expect
from a fast food franchise.
Here are
some snapshots of time that was stopped in the ruins of Herculaneum.
In
preparation for this trip, obviously, we had a wish list of many places that we
wanted to visit. However, there has also
been what we call the unplanned, unexpected jewels. Our last stop in southern Italy was one of
those jewels called Paestum. The town
was founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC. It has some of the best, well-preserved Greek
ruins found anywhere, and that includes Greece and Turkey. It has three marvelous temples still standing
and the remains of Roman ruins interspersed between the temples. The Romans left the temples undisturbed
because they respected all sacred sites.
The temples
are the Temple of Hera,
the Temple
of Neptune,
Paestum is
on the waters of Salerno Bay. It was
here that my Dad as a young gunner's mate on an LST was part of the invasion
force that landed at Salerno and which eventually led to the fall of Rome and
Italy surrendering to the Allies. So
walking the beach at our campsite for the evening was meaningful when thinking
about my Dad and what he experienced as a teenager off the coast of Paestum.
"Our happiest moments as tourists always seem to come when we stumble upon one thing while in pursuit of something else." Lawrence Block