"And yet the place (Edinburgh) establishes an interest in people's hearts; go where they will, they find no city of the same distinction." Robert Louis Stevenson
Al writes: Our first impressions when visiting a new city give us an idea about the uniqueness and character of the city. As soon as we entered Edinburgh, we felt this visit would be a special treat. Edinburgh is the historical and cultural capital of Scotland. What we thought would be a three-day stay turned into 5 days and ended up being the longest time we have spent in one place since we arrived in Europe.
Al writes: Our first impressions when visiting a new city give us an idea about the uniqueness and character of the city. As soon as we entered Edinburgh, we felt this visit would be a special treat. Edinburgh is the historical and cultural capital of Scotland. What we thought would be a three-day stay turned into 5 days and ended up being the longest time we have spent in one place since we arrived in Europe.
The
town is on the Firth of Forth (I love saying that fast) and is built around a
couple of extinct volcanoes on lava flows. The old town dates back to
medieval times and the new town is one of the first Georgian (18th Century)
planned towns.
The entire area is dominated by Edinburgh Castle (11th Century) which has been an integral fixture in the history of the city. It currently houses the Scottish Royal Crown Jewels, the Stone of Scone (more later), National War Memorial, Scottish Military Museum, and headquarters of a Scottish Regiment. It is also the place where the Military Tattoo takes place, which is an annual competition of bagpipe bands from around the world. It is a big deal and you have to get reservations a year in advance.
From
the castle, you enter the Royal Mile. It is the main street through the
medieval portion of the town that ends at the royal Palace of Holyroodhouse.
The street is lined with shops, restaurants, museums, the Scottish
Parliament, and historic landmarks.
The
Palace of Holyroodhouse and connected abbey ruins is the royal family's
bungalow in Edinburgh. The Queen comes here every year, receives the keys
to the city, which she immediatley gives back for safekeeping, and throws a
modest garden party for 8000 after she awards the Order of the Thistle to
deserving Scots for above and beyond performance, duty, or charity.
After
visiting the new Scottish Parliament Building, I have to digress a little on
the history. The United Kingdom is composed of England, Wales, Scotland,
and Northern Ireland. Over the centuries, England had to repeatedly put
down revolutions in these areas. Scotland was always a thorn in England's
butt with such guys as Bonnie Prince Charles and William Wallace. The
Scottish Parliament originated in 1293 but was dissolved in 1707. It is
only recently in 1998 that the Scots voted for home rule and the Queen formally
opened Parliament in 1999. Also, the Queen agreed to return the Stone of
Scone with the condition that it be returned for future coronations at
Westminster Abbey. The Stone of Scone is a big grey chunk of rock on
which the Scottish Kings as far back as the 9th century were coronated.
We saw the big grey chunk of rock next to the Crown Jewels but were forbidden
to take photos. What is more interesting is Scotland has a big vote next
year on whether to remain a part of the United Kingdom or become an independent
country. Crazy stuff. It is like Texas trying to secede from the
Union. Hmmm, that sounds familiar.
We devoted
an entire day to the National Museum of Scotland.
Wow,
what a collection of stuff in a confusing series of buildings! I told one Scottish couple on an elevator
that I have been trying to find the exit for three days and keep moving so that
I am not labeled an artifact. They
laughed but I think I heard a mumble about crazy Americans. You could spend a week in the place. They say that there are 20,000 artifacts on
display and we saw only 3,479. I thought
the highlights were the hoards and brooches.
Scotland and Ireland are covered in bogs and that is where the oldtimers
hid their wealth. The museums are full
of discovered hoards that go as far back as Roman times. I know what I would be doing if I owned some
bog.
Brooches
were used to hold the cape on the shoulders, and the more ornate, the higher
one's standing.
Another
very enjoyable museum was the National Gallery of Scotland. For a relatively small museum, it has some
world-renowned art in an impressive setting with red walls.
Other
sights included a tour of a 17th century merchant's house, an 18th century
Georgian house, and the Writers' Museum devoted to the big three in Scottish
literature: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.
Finally,
our last day in Edinburgh was devoted to touring Her Majesty's Royal Yacht
Britannia. The ship served the Royal
Family for 40 years and was retired in 1997, ending an unbroken string of royal
yachts that stretch back to the early 17th century. The Britannia is really two ships in one. There is the portion that is devoted to the
Royal Family and staff, and then the part that is the Royal Navy.
The
ship was commissioned in the early 50's and has that look of simplicity. It was used extensively by the royal family
for showing the flag, diplomacy, vacations, and honeymoons. It was not a bad way to travel. A sampling of the royal suites include the
Queen's bedroom,
Queen's
office,
Queen's sun deck
Queen's
State Dining Room (Eisenhowers, Clintons, Reagans, Madela, Yeltsin to name a
few have been fed here),
The
Royal Navy side was fascinating because of the rules followed to avoid
disturbing the royal family and make it a tranquil, relaxing place. All
work was to be completed by 8 AM. Only first names were used among the
crew. No public, loud disciplinary actions. If you ran into a royal
family member, you came to attention and looked off to the horizon. The
crew was required to use hand signals. The captain of the ship was an
Admiral. To contribute to this placid environment, there were 5 official
bars for the crew depending on your rank. Shucks, I could have enjoyed
going to sea in this environment. I could start my day quietly talking to
Seaman Timmy on his chore to complete by 8, walk into the wardroom and
talk about our cruise route today with Winston, the Admiral. I could
practice my hand signals for the rest of the day until it was time to have a
pint of Guinness in the officer's bar.
The
tour of the yacht was very complete from the bridge to the engine room.
Some examples:
Royal
Marines berthing,
low-ranking enlisted bar/lounge,
officer's
bar,
engine
room,
officer's wardroom (I never had ship meals with crystal),
and
the senior chief's bar (I apologize for the photo but a German couple insisted
that we pose with the hats).
After
the tour, it was easy to see how much we have adapted from the Royal Navy
(except for the bars).
Our
stay in Edinburgh was a great time to explore one of the unique cities of the
world. Now it is time to move south down the west coast of England for
more adventures.
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