“You have enemies? Good. That means you’ve stood up for
something, sometime in your life.”
Winston Churchill
Carol
writes:
CULLODEN
BATTLEFIELD: One of the most pivotal points in Scottish
history was decided on April 16, 1746, on the battlefield at Culloden. Under the leadership of Bonnie Prince
Charles, the Jacobite Highlanders of the House of Stuart sought to retake the English
throne from the house of Hanover, English royalty of German descent. At Culloden, the Highlanders were soundly
defeated in only one hour, and over 1000 men lost their lives. For over two centuries, Scottish culture and
traditions have been trying to recover from the events that occurred on the
battlefield at Culloden.
Today the
battlefield looks much as it did 250 years ago.
Simple, unadorned engraved stones mark the respective areas where each Highlander clan was buried.
The English
government troops had their special area set aside too.
A simple stone house with a thatched roof that was there on the day of battle has been nicely restored.
So…for the
past 250 years Scotland has been a part of the United Kingdom; however, the
yearning for independence has never totally disappeared. Interestingly, we were just recently informed
that one of the ballot questions in the next election will be a question on
whether Scotland should withdraw from the United Kingdom and become its own independent
country. That will be an interesting election
result to watch. In our conversations
with locals, we have heard both sides of what is a very complicated issue.
CLAVA
CAIRNS: Very near Culloden Battlefield, we visited a
fascinating Neolithic burial site called Clava Cairns, stone monuments which
were built 3000-4000 years ago. We have
been waiting to see some really old burial sites like this. The simplicity and accessibility of Clava
Cairns was especially nice.
ORKNEY
ISLANDS: One of the things you think about a lot on any
open-ended trip is how far should we go?
In our case, we wondered how far north on the Earth we would be able to
travel in the British Isles. We took the
paved roads as far north as we could on the Scottish coast, and it was a
spectacular drive! We camped in a
Caravan Club site that was right above the beach at Dunnet’s Head with only the
grass-covered coastal dunes between us and the water.
The question
we had to decide was whether we should book a car ferry to the nearby Orkney
Islands for a few days of camping. The
exorbitant ferry pricing for camping cars caused us to reconsider taking the RV
over. We booked a day excursion instead,
and that turned out to be the right decision.
Our ferry/bus tour covered pretty much everything we wanted to see and,
for a change, Al could sit back and relax and let somebody else do the driving.
The Orkney
Islands are a group of about 70 islands, but only 16 or so of them are
inhabited. Our bus tour would drive us
around the largest Orkney Mainland Island and across the connecting Churchill
Barriers to two smaller islands.
Our
fascination with the Orkney Islands, aside from being the northern most point
in our travels, was due to its WW II history and its Neolithic history. In WW II a large portion of the British fleet
used Scapa Flow as a safe harbor when they were not on patrol. Unfortunately, the Germans knew this and on
October 14, 1939, a German submarine snuck into the harbor and sank the battleship
H.M.S. Royal Oak with a terrible loss
of 833 lives. As a result, Winston
Churchill ordered giant rock barriers to be built in four areas that could be
used to gain entrance to the Scapa Flow harbor.
These are known as the Churchill Barriers. The Orkneys were also used as prisoner-of-war
camps. A delightful little chapel was
constructed by some of the Italian prisoners so they would have a place of
worship. Our first tour bus stop was at
the ‘Italian Chapel.’
It is the
Orkney Islands Neolithic history that has put it front and center in the
archeological world. This summer’s
ongoing excavations have attracted worldwide attention. The 4000-year-old Skara Brae site, uncovered
by a great storm in the winter of 1850, is one of the most remarkable monuments
in Europe. For us, this small Neolithic
village was the highlight of our day trip.
and the
Standing Stones of Stenness—not of Stonehenge notoriety or complexity but
equally fascinating nonetheless.
Our visit to
the Orkney Islands had taken us to the 59th degree of latitude, marking
it as our farthest point north. We were
delighted with our day excursion to the Orkney Islands, one of the more remote
locations on the Earth and also one with a fascinating recent and ancient
history.
“The most incomprehensible thing about
the world is that it is comprehensible.”
Albert Einstein
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