“Take only
memories, leave only footprints.” Chief
Seattle
Beautiful and
welcome balmy, sunny days followed us as we left the Italian Riviera and headed
to the French side. It was easy for us
to understand why the French Riviera has drawn countless visitors over the millennia
of man’s presence there. It is flat-out gorgeous all along the coast, and the
Mediterranean Sea is an indescribable lovely azure blue—the Cote d’Azur.
We welcomed
the warm, low-humidity days after experiencing a cold and rainy spring during
our earlier more northerly travels.
European
campgrounds can be pretty deluxe for a relatively low price, and that was the
case at our last stop along the Italian Riviera in Finale Ligure. Here we had the luxury of our first
campground swimming pool—and what a beauty it was—surrounded by a lovely
restaurant and modern stucco vacation apartments. Now I was starting to feel spoiled by this
campground life…
We followed
advice we had read and decided to use Antibes as our base for exploring the
tiny principality of Monaco, in addition to Nice, France’s 5th
largest city. It was very easy to make
day trips on the regional trains out of Antibes that go to each of these destinations,
so that became the plan. Antibes itself proved
to be an interesting city to explore.
Old town Antibes was a maze of narrow streets and red-tiled roofs rising
above the magnificent azure-blue Mediterranean Sea. The color, light and ambience of Antibes have
made it a longtime refuge of the rich and famous. It has fascinated many famous entertainers,
artists and authors, such as Picasso, Monet, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and Ernest
Hemingway. Many past and present movie
stars have wined and dined in its luxurious hotels. Not surprisingly, many artists have
experienced their most productive years in Antibes.
The physical
beauty of Antibes was remarkable.
We had a
picture-perfect sunny day to wander the harbor area and gawk at the yachts of
the ultra-rich docked in Europe’s biggest pleasure-boat harbor.
On one of our
days in Antibes, we took a terrific hike on a trail that went right along the
Mediterranean Sea and around the tip of Cap d’Antibes. The area along this coastal walk was peppered
with dozens of exclusive mansions, most of them expertly hidden from view
behind stone walls topped with lovely landscaped bushes, various varieties of cacti,
and palm trees.
Our visit to
Monaco was an easy hour’s ride by regional train from Antibes.
Rick Steves has
written that Monaco is a “Rivera must,” so we set out in our very best “camping
finery” to see for ourselves. Our train
that day was delayed due to an accident on the track, so we arrived in Monaco
more than ready for lunch. Always ready
to experiment with local cuisine, Al ordered the specialty of the day—carpaccio
de boeuf—which our waitress described as thinly sliced beef accompanied by a nice
helping of French fries, with dessert and a small coffee drink included. I stuck with ole dependable pizza with
mozzarella cheese and mushrooms, and was I glad I did. Our chins fell to the table when Al’s
specialty of the day was proudly placed in front of him by our server. We had neglected to ask if the beef was
cooked—it wasn’t—and Al began what I can only describe as a ‘meal-challenge
from Hell,’ similar to what you see on the “Amazing Race.” Never wanting to waste food, Al somehow
forced down about half of the uncooked beef.
I felt so sorry for him I shared half of my pizza. This whole sorry incident was so reminiscent
of the time on a previous trip to Paris when I decided to experiment and ordered
steak tartare, which I can only describe as similar to uncooked hamburger
meat. Even after pleading and sending
that meal back to the kitchen for a “little extra cooking,” I found it
disgusting. No more ordering beef of any
kind in French restaurants!
Now refreshed
from our lunch in Monaco…
Monaco is a
tiny principality of 0.75 square miles and is under the leadership of the House
of Grimaldi, which is now ruled by Prince Albert II, successor to Prince Rainier,
who was married to the American movie star Grace Kelly. Oh my goodness, Monaco dripped of incredible
beauty, wealth, and privilege! Today,
Monaco has the distinction of having the highest per-capita income in the
world.
I was
thrilled to be able to take an hour self-guided tour of the Prince’s Palace,
where Prince Albert and his wife live today.
At the end of the palace tour we saw a rather extensive Napoleon
collection of items that are part of the prince’s private collection. For me, the biggest thrill was seeing
Napoleon’s actual bicorn hat.
We made a
brief stop in the Cathedral of Monaco, where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier
were married. Both are buried in the
cathedral, along with centuries of other Grimaldi ancestors. I was touched by the inscription Prince Rainier
had placed on his beloved wife’s gravestone—“Gratia Patricia.”
No visit to
Monte Carlo would be complete without a stop in front of Europe’s most famous
casino. We didn’t have proper formal
attire that was required to go inside, but the view from the outside was
sufficient for me. Besides, my baccarat
skills are a bit lacking, and I find it totally ridiculous to pay an entrance
fee to lose money.
Instead, we
tried a few slots in the adjacent unimpressive “commoner’s casino” and came
away after half an hour with a profit of about 40 cents! It was strange to see
many of the very same slot machines we are accustomed to playing in the U.S.
Our second day
trip from Antibes was to the city of Nice.
We started our walking tour in the grand square called Place Massena,
then headed
through the Cour Saleya market, a large commotion of lovely spices, foods, and
tourist trinkets.
We made our
way to the famous Promenade des Anglais, a 4-mile strip that Rick Steves calls
the “seafront circus.” Maybe it was the
time of day or the rare cloudy day, thus resulting in fewer beachgoers, but
neither Al nor I was overly impressed and thus didn’t walk very far on this
so-called famous promenade.
Around the
corner was a well-preserved house that painter Henri Matisse lived in for 17
years.
Our walking
tour concluded with a visit to the Palais Lascaris (c. 1647), most notable for
its Baroque Italian architecture and an interesting collection of antique
musical instruments.
As we left
Antibes and followed the coastline, we drove through Cannes, location of the
just-completed annual Cannes Film Festival.
True to form, I rarely get good pictures out of the window of a moving
vehicle so, sadly, we have no photos of Cannes, but both of us were impressed
by its wealthy ambience, luxurious modern made-to-look-old hotels, and its
immense playground yachting harbor. Cannes
looked exactly like what I would expect from a preferred destination for many
of the world’s wealthiest film stars.
So…we are heading
into the Provence area of France and are now camped for a few days outside tiny
Lambesc, about an hour north of the Riviera.
I have been struck by a nasty summer head cold which is accompanied by a
relentless hacking cough. It has been a
true test of the marriage vows to sleep together in a 23-ft RV when one of us
is hacking away through the night.
However, I have started to turn the corner toward recovery with the help
of some unfamiliar French cold medications, along with the hot mistral breezes
and a tincture of swimming pool.
“Travel
teaches toleration.” Benjamin Disraeli
Well, I was hungry then I saw the picture of your beef dinner...not hungry anymore. Hahaha. But the fries looked good.
ReplyDeleteThe French Riviera is the Mediterranean coast of south eastern France. The Saint- Tropez beach resort is the perfect place to hang out when hot weather can prove to be a bit too much and the view during sunset in unmissable.
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