December 15, 2018

THE TIMELESS ANZA-BORREGO DESERT, PART II

Carol writes:  Our days in Borrego Springs morphed into a relaxing routine of long morning walks on dirt trails around the periphery of the golf course,






and into the quiet streets of the Roadrunner senior living community that abutted our campground.  During our daily walks, we played a game of hunting for errant golf balls that lay hidden in the dry vegetation outside the boundaries of the golf course.







The “Anza” of Anza-Borrego Desert commemorates Juan Bautista de Anza, a captain in the Spanish Army who was one of the first European explorers to travel through this desert while seeking a land route from Mexico to northern California.




In Spanish the word “borrego” means roughly “yearling lamb,” referring to the somewhat rare desert bighorn sheep that inhabit this desert.

ANZA
BORREGO




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Coyote Canyon was the route by which the Anza expedition moved slowly northwest through the Borrego Valley in 1774.  


Undoubtedly, the view that surrounded Anza and his men had not changed all that much in nearly 250 years!


We took time to savor majestic ocotillo (some with brilliant red blooms from a recent rain) and their little cholla cactus neighbors.









In the southeastern part of the park, the Fish Creek Canyon 4-wheel drive trail led us to another adventure-filled day.  


An unusual geologic feature called an “anticline” was the star of the canyon.


This anticline feature was formed in a matter of seconds when a sudden landslide in an ancient sea pushed horizontal layers of marine sediment into irregular folds which subsequently solidified.

The road through the canyon was lined by dramatic canyon walls, 


then opened out into a wide sandy wash surrounded by amazing geological works of art. 































We had read about the so-called sandstone-carved “wind caves” in Coyote Canyon, but locating the trail leading to the caves was more challenging than we expected.  After a couple of hours of wandering around, we spotted the trailhead to the wind caves.


It was a fairly easy climb to the top,


where we took our turn getting vanity shots.



I was relieved when we finally negotiated a particularly rocky part of the trail coming down, as the downhill always foreshadows the most potential mishaps for the knees.


On the outskirts of Borrego Springs on a private parcel of land called Galleta Meadows, a menagerie of free-standing metal sculptures has attracted visitors from far and wide.  


These live-size metal creatures depicting animals, 



historical humans, 



and a few imaginary beasts of fantasy 




looked so natural in the desert landscape.

Photography was pure joy, and whimsical pics were irresistible…



The old mining district town of Julian is famous for the quality and variety of its apple crop.  For quite a different reason, Julian has held a sweet spot in my heart for over 40 years.  Back in the 70s, Al brought me to Julian and nearby Cuyamuca Rancho State Park on one of our early dates.  I was being introduced to hiking and had a brand new pair of hiking boots that I wanted to break in on our first hike together.  In the state park we found the peak that we climbed on that day so long ago, just as we remembered it!


Oh… and a freshly baked Julian apple pie rode back with us to Borrego Springs…

Our Borrego Springs campground was completely booked for the Thanksgiving weekend.  The dry, cloudless days of the past 3 weeks continued their run.  Thousands of campers and dune buggy enthusiasts descended upon Borrego Valley, notably at the Ocotillo Wells State Recreational Vehicle Area.  


While passing through Ocotillo Wells at the end of our day at Fish Creek, we were flabbergasted at the air quality as we approached the main highway!  The dust raised by racing off-road vehicles had created terrible visibility on busy Hwy 78.  At the time Al and I remarked about how dangerous road conditions were…


Tragically, two hours after we passed through dust-choked Ocotillo Wells, a car crash involving two trucks on Hwy 78 proved fatal for both drivers.

Which brings me to a few final comments on life and play in the desert…

The old way of life in Borrego Springs has come to a crossroads.  The town water supply is headed toward critical levels because the aquifer is being depleted faster than it can be recharged naturally.  Residents have been warned that they will be asked to cut water use by 75% or face having their only water source run dry.  

Agriculture businesses are facing the reality of being forced to go fallow.

Difficult decisions lie ahead on how to deal with the thirsty green lawns of the golf resorts, the businesses that Borrego Springs relies on to bring in tourist dollars, the main source of the town’s revenue.

As far as choking air pollution goes… I’ll just say that corralling recreational vehicle use to an area set aside by the state hasn’t solved a darn thing!  The atmosphere has no fences!  Limiting user numbers would appear to be the least harsh solution, short of banning off-road activities altogether. 

The Anza-Borrego Desert was a truly wonderful locale for serious down time for us.  However, it was sad to learn that a plummeting aquifer level and unhealthy recreational dust pollution are now bumping up against the timeless Anza-Borrego Desert way of life.



December 8, 2018

SLOWING DOWN IN THE TIMELESS ANZA-BORREGO DESERT, Part I

Carol writes:  Our next evolution pointed three hundred miles south to Borrego Springs, a small desert town completely surrounded by Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.


For the entire month of November, we planned to set a much slower pace in Borrego Springs at a relatively new first-rate RV park with all the bells and whistles, so to speak.  As part of regrouping for the next year on the road, we had plans to service the Jeep in Temecula, take care of a few small motorhome repairs, and undertake some deep-cleaning of the motorhome, both inside and out.


Our campsite looked out on the 2nd tee of the RV park’s immaculately groomed golf course, which in turn was surrounded by a spectacular desert panorama.



A treasured patch of shade at our campsite


provided the perfect position from which to capture some of Al’s practice swings on the 2nd tee… in order to obtain pictures for some self-analysis of form later on. 


After a few scorching days the first week, the fall season settled upon Borrego Valley, resulting in near-perfect conditions for exploring the four corners of the Anza-Borrego Desert.

PALM CANYON

A short uphill hike through bighorn sheep habitat along the Palm Canyon Trail 


led to a grove of native California fan palms, a true oasis in the desert! 








We had a great conversation with an Australian couple beneath a cool shade canopy where we were surrounded by grassy palm skirts.









FONT’S POINT


One of the most spectacular viewpoints in the state park required some 4-wheeling out to Font’s Point.  For geology buffs, this area was touted by park literature as “the best place in North America to view sediments of the Pliocene and Pleistocene Epochs.”  More simply for us, this vantage point provided unparalleled grandiose views of the Borrego Badlands 



and the entire Borrego Valley


THE SLOT

One of the most highly recommended walks in the Anza-Borrego Desert was the 2-mile Slot Hike Trail,


which included a 1/2-mile section of a narrow slot canyon of soft sandstone that had been beautifully carved by wind and water.



















The downhill slope into the canyon was met on the other end by incredibly beautiful harsh desert topography that necessitated a somewhat steep climb back to the car.




By unanimous consensus, our most rewarding day of hiking in Anza-Borrego was the one we spent in Blair Valley.  Three superb hiking trails captivated us with evidence of man’s previous existence in the valley.

PICTOGRAPH TRAIL




Any trail with pictographs is a winner for us!  




It’s always interesting to visit sites associated with ancient human habitation.  These ancient dwellers often drew pictographs that depicted meaningful objects or events in their lives; however, on this pictograph-covered boulder the interpretation appears to have remained solely with the artist.



MORTEROS TRAIL

The Morteros Trail led to curious “cupules” carved into rocky vertical surfaces.  The precise meaning of these Indian grinding holes has remained an archeological mystery.



The purpose of grinding holes carved into horizontal surfaces was more obvious.  These rocky impressions served as mortars for grinding various foodstuffs.

Oh, the conversations about daily life that must have played out in these “kitchens” of the early inhabitants of the Borrego Valley.


MARSHALL SOUTH HOME


The grand finale was the biggest challenge on this day of hiking in Blair Valley.  The remains of an old homestead 





that was once home to the Marshall South family was located on the summit of Ghost Mountain atop a 600-ft cliff that required a steep 1-mile climb to the top.  


It was interesting to compare a vintage picture of the original homestead with what little remained today.

Low rock walls, a doorway section of an adobe wall, and the old stone and concrete water cistern were all that remained of the dwelling that once served as the home of the South family. 


This abandoned homestead was evidence of an experiment in desert living that played out in the 1930s and 40s.  Sadly, this crumbling remnant in Blair Valley was the sole epitaph to the life of Marshall South, who once said that he simply desired “silence and peace.”



I would like to think the family found a little of each, but ultimately the harsh living conditions of the desert prevailed and the dream was ultimately abandoned.

Within a few weeks we were enamored with the solitude and beautiful forbidding scenery of the Anza-Borrego Desert.  

Desert art around Borrego Springs, Spanish explorer history, 4-wheeling in Fish Creek, a visit to Julian, and a look back at the park where I did my very first hike with Al would occupy our attention for the rest of November.   

Stay tuned for Part II…